Yes it can. Sometimes certain types of siding (older vinyl, aluminum) will be more difficult to remove/re-install in the dead of winter, but the majority of weatherization activities can be done all year long. If walls cannot be blown in the winter time, a follow up appointment in the Springtime can certainly be scheduled.

By adding more insulation without sealing the areas of air leakage beneath it, you are lowering the respective surface temperatures in the attic to the point where they will become "condensing surfaces". Any time a surface temperature falls below the dewpoint temperature, any water vapor in the air will condense on that surface. The air in the home during the wintertime tends to have elevated relative humidity. Fiberglass insulation does not have the air stopping characteristics necessary to remedy this problem. If air goes through/around the fiberglass, moisture goes right along with it, where it can now condense on the colder objects in the attic. Air sealing should ALWAYS be done before any insulation is added.

PHONE: 207-945-HEATTOLL FREE: 1-866-945-0063EMAIL: info@heatkeepers.net

Ask for the licensing/accreditation of the contractor. They should
carry more than just factory training. Belonging to an organization
like B.P.I. (Building Performance Institute), or any other third party
verifier is the best way to go. At a minimum, the contractor should
carry the ME State Auditor I license, which ensures that they are well
versed in Building Science.
They should also carry Lead Smart Renovator certification, which means they are versed in lead smart work practices.
The
more reputable contractors will also implement the use of infra-red
(IR) thermography as a verification of a successful job.

This is called an ice dam. Certain weather patterns (freeze/thaw) can
cause this, but not usually. Heat loss into the attic is the main
culprit. The underside of the roof decking warms, then melts the snow
above it. When the water hits the cold roof (eave) it re-freezes. The
ice can potentially jam up under the shingles, and get into interior
wall cavities, where it can rot framing members and cause mold to grow.
The solution is to find the bypasses into the attic from the living
space and seal them.

HeatKeepers is a certified home performance evaluation service designed
to help your family stay comfortable, use less energy and lower your
overall costs.

A test called a "Blower Door" test should be done, at a minimum. The
blower door will create a pressure difference between the air inside and
the air outside. Then the amount of air (cubic feet per minute) that
it takes to maintain this pressure difference is measured. The test
also exaggerates air leakage by moving air through the building, and by
pulling outside air through any cracks/crevices within the building
shell. Anywhere you feel air come in lets you know where air is exiting.

Combustion safety testing should also be done to ensure that
building tightening activities have not negatively impacted chimney
draft or heating appliance operation.

Yes and no. By adding ventilation you will expel the warm air causing
the ice dams. But remember, that air is warm because we paid to heat it
(interior air). The ice dams may go away, but the energy bills will
certainly increase. All bypasses into the attic need to be located and
sealed. Most of the time additional insulation will be needed, but not
until the areas of heat loss/air movement are sealed.