Frequently Asked Questions
Can building tightening/weatherization work be done all year?
Yes it can. Sometimes certain types of siding (older vinyl, aluminum) will be more difficult to remove/re-install in the dead of winter, but the majority of weatherization activities can be done all year long. If walls cannot be blown in the winter time, a follow up appointment in the Springtime can certainly be scheduled.
How do I contact you?
How do I know which insulation contractors are competent and which ones aren't?
Ask for the licensing/accreditation of the contractor. They should carry more than just factory training. Belonging to an organization like B.P.I. (Building Performance Institute), or any other third party verifier is the best way to go. At a minimum, the contractor should carry the ME State Auditor I license, which ensures that they are well versed in Building Science.
They should also carry Lead Smart Renovator certification, which means they are versed in lead smart work practices.
The more reputable contractors will also implement the use of infra-red (IR) thermography as a verification of a successful job.
I added more fiberglass insulation to my attic last year and noticed frost on the nail heads and roof decking. Why did this happen?
By adding more insulation without sealing the areas of air leakage beneath it, you are lowering the respective surface temperatures in the attic to the point where they will become "condensing surfaces". Any time a surface temperature falls below the dewpoint temperature, any water vapor in the air will condense on that surface. The air in the home during the wintertime tends to have elevated relative humidity. Fiberglass insulation does not have the air stopping characteristics necessary to remedy this problem. If air goes through/around the fiberglass, moisture goes right along with it, where it can now condense on the colder objects in the attic. Air sealing should ALWAYS be done before any insulation is added.
In the winter time, why do I have icicles hanging from my roof?
This is called an ice dam. Certain weather patterns (freeze/thaw) can cause this, but not usually. Heat loss into the attic is the main culprit. The underside of the roof decking warms, then melts the snow above it. When the water hits the cold roof (eave) it re-freezes. The ice can potentially jam up under the shingles, and get into interior wall cavities, where it can rot framing members and cause mold to grow. The solution is to find the bypasses into the attic from the living space and seal them.
What is HeatKeepers?
HeatKeepers is a certified home performance evaluation service designed to help your family stay comfortable, use less energy and lower your overall costs.
What kind of testing should be done to my home before any insulation is installed?
A test called a "Blower Door" test should be done, at a minimum. The blower door will create a pressure difference between the air inside and the air outside. Then the amount of air (cubic feet per minute) that it takes to maintain this pressure difference is measured. The test also exaggerates air leakage by moving air through the building, and by pulling outside air through any cracks/crevices within the building shell. Anywhere you feel air come in lets you know where air is exiting.
Combustion safety testing should also be done to ensure that building tightening activities have not negatively impacted chimney draft or heating appliance operation.
Will increased attic ventilation solve ice dam problems?
Yes and no. By adding ventilation you will expel the warm air causing the ice dams. But remember, that air is warm because we paid to heat it (interior air). The ice dams may go away, but the energy bills will certainly increase. All bypasses into the attic need to be located and sealed. Most of the time additional insulation will be needed, but not until the areas of heat loss/air movement are sealed.
